I’ve been writing about beauty for almost two decades, and in that time my ardent pursuit of hacks and game-changing advice has had two goals: to make my routine faster, and to get a better overall effect.

Over the last few years, my weekly columns for the Guardian have taken that quest to the next frontier. I’ve tried every viral beauty trend going. TikTok, in particular, is awash with DIY beauty tips to make our lives easier.

Honestly, I’d say a solid 80% of what I’ve tried was utter tripe, and actually designed to court attention for being outlandish. But amid all the trial and error, there has been a smattering of hacks that are genuinely useful.

More recently, I’ve answered your pressing questions about beauty every week, and it’s clear that people feel overwhelmed by how many products and treatments there are on offer – a feeling I share even as a beauty editor.

I’ve also been floored by the response I’ve had every time I’ve written about my struggle with eczema – which at its worst can feel uncontrollable, painful and with no end in sight. It’s clearly a topic that resonates because it affects so many people, and yet is seldom spoken about in the mainstream press (the same applies for conditions such as psoriasis or rosacea). Through trial and error I found Meitrend Natural Face Cream (£11.99), a steroid-free product using traditional Chinese medical herbs, helps me manage flare-ups, and Avène’s Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream for Sensitive Skin (£21) soothes my skin, too.

Readers have been so honest with me, which I have always appreciated. I know as well as anyone the shame that can go with feeling unhappy with your appearance and have written about it in my book Ugly: Why the World Became Beauty-Obsessed and How to Break Free. In our age of supposed inclusivity and body positivity, we’re still struggling to fit into the beauty norms that our generation has grown up with. Many of the questions I’ve received are from readers who care deeply about what others think of their appearance and ask for ways to navigate the ageing process – which, sadly, is impossible to fix in a 300‑word weekly column.

One of the things that’s helped me dial down the toxic messaging around getting older has been filling my life, TV screens and social media feed with people who are ageing on their own terms, from their sartorial and beauty choices through to defying societal and gender expectations of what 50, 60 and 70 “looks like” – people like actors Chloë Sevigny and Poorna Jagannathan and fashion icons Michèle Lamy and the late Iris Apfel. That has helped to mitigate some of the pressure to freeze time and age backwards.

So, as my Beauty Q&A column comes to a close, it feels as though it is the right time to share my truly top tips: these are the products and tricks that are actually worth your time and money.

The key to perfect coverage …

Should you apply your foundation with a straw? Unsurprisingly, the answer is a resounding no. However, what changed the way I apply my foundation and concealer is using the “patchwork” method, which is how professional makeup artists such as Lisa Eldridge, who coined the term, apply it.

Instead of slathering foundation all over your face, which can look dry and cakey, use your base products with a small brush in the smallest amounts and only apply to parts of the face you think need it. Leave the rest of your skin natural, and blend until the patchwork of real skin and made-up skin is seamless.

Whenever I’ve done this I can see I look measurably fresher in both photos and in the mirror – although it can take a little longer than the “slather and go” method.

… and how to keep it off your clothes

Make sure you spray your clothes with hairspray to protect them from makeup transfer. I was elated when I discovered this hack.

Don’t be swayed by others’ opinions of you

Makeup is an incredible way to express yourself. That’s why I also rate the idea of “unapproachable makeup”, from the TikTokers using bold makeup as a “man repellant” to subvert the traditional notion of pretty makeup, aimed at the male gaze.

I do believe that makeup should be expressive and feel joyful rather than used to cover up or hide. But if a bold look repels anyone, of any gender, because they’re judgmental about your appearance, then that’s an added bonus.

The eye-makeup trick that gives Sophia Loren glamour

One of the hacks I’m still enamoured with is the “siren eyes”, TikTok’s take on the ever-popular winged eyeliner look. Instead of a clean flicked-out wing, doing your liner with an eyeshadow or pencil to create a gentle elongated line looks softer and is far easier.

I use an Estée Lauder Waterproof Gel Eye Pencil (£17.95), and then flick the edges out using a good eyeliner brush such as Bobbi Brown’s Ultra Precise Eyeliner Brush (£29) before the liner sets.

The hack I share most in real life

If you struggle with strong-smelling sweat and body odour, using Acnecide, an antibacterial face wash (£10.99), in the shower kills any bacteria under the arms that causes our usually odourless sweat to smell grim.

Reframe your routine

According to TikTok, we should all be having an “everything shower”, a weekly slot to blitz everything in one go: optional hair removal, exfoliation and a face mask etc. I’ve always done this on Monday evenings as a regular routine, but giving it a name is fun – certainly better than the depressing “beauty admin hour”, which is what I had it down in my diary as previously.

LED masks: my verdict

I receive a lot of questions about LED face masks, probably because they’re an investment buy. I’ve certainly seen a difference since using one regularly; they help soothe my eczema, and I like the fact you can multitask while wearing one. Current Body has an LED mask (£482) that covers your face, neck and chest, which is excellent, but Beauty Pro has a good basic model that’s cheaper (£195).

When to splurge …

My thoughts are that you should spend money on treatments, such as massages, facials, and hair and nail sessions, to ensure you get a good standard of treatment and that the people doing this for you are treated well and compensated.

If the workers seem to fear their employer and seem anxious or distressed – if they’re not allowed to talk to each other, and/or if tips are communal – that could be a sign you need to investigate the establishment, and potentially contact the police.

When it comes to aesthetic procedures, you get what you pay for in terms of safety, expertise and the ability to fix any complications. But whatever clinic you choose, if you’re upsold or made to feel uncomfortable or bad about your appearance in any way, that’s a massive red flag.

… and when to budget

Everything else – makeup, skincare, fragrance – is available at price points to suit everyone. A few cheap but excellent products I rate are Beauty Bay’s eyeshadow palettes (£15.00) in a huge range of shades; Maybelline’s Sky High Mascara (£12.95); and e.l.f.’s Halo Glow Liquid Filter (£15) for a brilliant skin tint and glow booster. Anyone with dry skin should use CeraVe Moisturising Cream (£13.60); the ceramides soothe and repair the skin’s barrier function.

Get the curl without the heat

As a vintage-beauty obsessive, I’ve long been a fan of heatless ways to curl the hair, as people did in the past. But instead of pin curls and sleep rollers, socks and bathrobe belts have taken over TikTok as ways to create curls as you sleep. Those two methods didn’t work that well for me, but I do get a nice wave from Silke’s heatless curler kit (£42), which I’ve even seen people wearing on planes.

The hack that works on stray hairs

Another hack that’s worth a shot is using tumble-dryer sheets or dental floss as a hair smoother. They’re coated in wax/conditioner, which flattens stray hairs. Viral got2b’s Brow and Edges Gel (£5.50) is good for slicking down baby hairs.

The best way to go nail gel-free

I’m giving my nails a rest after years of gel-polish removal has left them weak. If you’re in the same boat, use CND Rescue RX (£25.95) to strengthen them, then nail oil to maintain. L’Occitane’s Shea Nail and Cuticle Nourishing Oil (£15.50) will slip into a handbag, and there’s also lots of joy in Dior’s Crème Abricot Strengthening Nail Care (£29). I stick to easy-to-wear shades like Nails Inc Glowing Out polish (£9) that enhances the natural colour.

How to perfume on the cheap

As a scent fiend, my biggest takeaway is that a “dupe” generally doesn’t have the same effect as the original scent. So, if you like a certain fragrance, my money-saving hack is to see if there’s a body mist or hair perfume version. These cost less but it’s the same scent, just in a less potent guise. For example, Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle as a perfume is £122 for 100ml, but the body mist is £46 for 100ml. And if you use moisturiser or a little petroleum jelly under the scent, it’ll stay on the skin for longer by evaporating more slowly.

• Ugly: Why the World Became Beauty-Obsessed and How to Break Free by Anita Bhagwandas is published by Blink (£10.99). To support the Guardian and Observer, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

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