Brussels and Bruges get all the attention, but Antwerp is Belgium’s most dynamic city. Shaped by its Flemish heritage, working port and centuries-old diamond trade, it’s a destination that feels both historic and excitingly modern offering a great mix of art – from Rubens masterpieces to avant-garde galleries – cutting-edge fashion and a buzzy food scene.

For a spectacular arrival

Antwerp Centraal Station provides a glorious welcome to the city. It’s a palace of stone, glass and metal, completed in 1905 by Belgian architect Louis Delacenserie, and widely regarded as one of the finest train stations in the world. The stonework is intricate and the central dome is an icon. Trains arrive every few minutes from Brussels. Step outside and you’ll find Antwerp is a beautifully walkable city.

For soaring spires

Dating from 1352, the Cathedral of our Lady (De Kathedraal) is an outstanding example of gothic architecture. The main tower rises 123m into the sky, well above anything else in Antwerp. Inside are several masterpieces by Rubens, while outside is the touching Nello and Pastrasche sculpture by Batist Vermeulen, based on the classic Flemish tale of a poor orphan boy and an abandoned dog who becomes his best friend

For incredible art

The Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (Flemish abbreviation KMSKA) is located in the cultural district of Het Zuid. It boasts an extensive collection spanning seven centuries, including Flemish and Dutch masterpieces (Rubens, Van Dyck) with modern art by the likes of James Ensor and Rik Wouters. The building itself is stunning: a fusion of neoclassical with ultra-modern extensions and cool installations, including a lovely water feature at the front – perfect for relaxing on a sunny day. There’s also a great café and garden.

For a tranquil stay in the city centre

The Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp hotel is housed in a meticulously restored 15th-century monastery right by the city’s Botanical Garden. The hotel has an astonishing four Michelin-stars across three of its restaurants, a destination spa and gardens. If you’re staying elsewhere in the city, do make sure to stop in for a cocktail, brunch, afternoon tea, or book a spa treatment. Another great hotel choice is U Eat & Sleep Antwerp, right by the marina.

For the best moules frites

Bourla, in the theatre district, is a brasserie in the grand style, all mirrors and chandeliers. North Sea mussels are served in huge steaming pots with salty fries and mayonnaise. If you want a bistro, locals flock to De Arme Duivel for steaks and stews. The coolest cafés, bars and restaurants can be found beside the leafy boulevards and squares of the arty Het Zuid quarter (home to museums and galleries) and Nieuw Zuid, an ambitious urban renewal project by the river Scheldt.

For secret courtyards and gardens

Antwerp is full of medieval streets, with hidden gems tucked behind. One, Vlaeykensgang, was nearly demolished in the 1960s after falling into decline. But the antique dealer Axel Vervoordt bought it up and it’s been beautifully restored. This network of crooked lanes and 16th-century houses, reached through an ancient door, is filled with restaurants, bars and galleries. Wander down Wolstraat and stop by the blue door at No 37. Push it open and you’ll find a former 15th-century almshouse, Bontwerkersplaats – 14 tiny homes around the courtyard, built in 1422 for the old, the sick and the poor. Over in a peaceful spot beside the university you’ll find the Begijnhof, a community of houses with garden and orchard, built for religious women in the 17th century.

For great vintage finds

Load up on designer labels, shoes and T-shirts at Melting Pot Kilo, where friendly staff weigh what you buy on a scale by the door. Rosier 41 offers high-end secondhand clothing and accessories, as does Labels Inc, with a focus on Belgian designers, including Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and Raf Simons. For a leisurely browse, take a walk down Kloosterstraat, lined with antique shops and vintage boutiques.

For a cracking cup of coffee and a classic Belgian beer

Caffenation is a chilled-out mini-chain of four speciality coffee shops founded in 2003 by artisan roaster Rob Berghmans. For something stronger, a small cobbled street leads to Quinten Matsijs, the oldest bar in Antwerp. Founded in 1565, it has atmospheric oak beams and leaded glass windows. Another popular venue, Borze Café, has a great list of beers (caffenation.be; quintenmatsijs.be; borzecafe.be).

For high fashion

The fashion capital of Belgium was put on the map by the so-called Antwerp Six, a clutch of radical young designers – including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries van Noten – who shot to fame in the late 1980s. Their flagship stores are definitely worth a visit. If you can, spend a few hours at MoMu, one of the world’s greatest fashion museums. (momu.be).

For a peek into a historic home

The Rubens House is where Pieter Paul Rubens, one of the greatest artists of the 17th century, lived and worked. It closed last year for renovations, but a small part of the house has reopened to the public, including a redesigned garden and library. Another 17th-century home worth a visit belonged to Nicolaas Rockox: wander through its furnished rooms, admire the collected paintings and relax in the secret garden (rubenshuis.be; snijdersrockoxhuis.be).

Eurostar customers can buy tickets from London to “Any Belgian station” starting at £51.50 each way, when booking a return journey at eurostar.com. Change trains in Brussels