Frost tints the landscape silver as we set up our easels in the watery morning sunlight. On the horizon is Burrow Hill, a gentle surge in the pancake-flat Somerset scene. Local artist Frances Watts talks me through how to mix colour palettes and then, with her help, I attempt to capture some of the wintry magic in oils.
I’d come to Kingsbury Episcopi, 20 minutes west of Yeovil, to stay in the new Craftsman’s Cabin, set in its own meadow on the edge of the Somerset Levels and Moors. Built by hand, the interior brims with work by artists from the area – some of Frances’ paintings hang on the walls. Those who stay can arrange an outdoor painting session, connecting more deeply with the pretty countryside and taking a keepsake home.
While the Somerset art scene may be dominated by Bruton farther north, with its Hauser & Wirth gallery, in the south there’s a more down-to-earth, crafty vibe, says cabin owner Decca Lang, an interior designer who grew up on a farm here. “There’s a long tradition of all sorts of crafts and lots of artists around here,” she says. “I wanted to celebrate local craftsmanship and creativity and shine a spotlight on our wonderful makers. Guests can even try their hand at something while they’re here – pottery, basket weaving, painting – it’s all nearby.”
We walk through a small orchard to the two-bedroom cabin which faces west to make the most of the sunset. Inside, it’s all earthy colours, with a cosy living area warmed by a wood burner, well-equipped kitchen and a wide covered veranda with rocking chairs, table and freestanding roll-top bath. Everything has a story: the woollen blanket by Gather was made with wool from sheep three fields away, the curtains were made from cloth woven by Fox Brothers, the oldest surviving mill in Somerset, and the firepit was forged by a blacksmith in the next village.
Among items that catch my eye is a relief of a man’s head, carved in Portland stone, with herbs growing like hair, made by sculptor and stone carver Tom Clark from nearby Martock. Tom runs weekend workshops and one-to-one sessions in his 16th century home and shows me around his studio filled with beautiful pieces. “It’s a tradition that’s seeing something of a revival, people love having a go,” he says. Next door is his son Bertie’s workshop – the woodworker who made the cabin’s oak kitchen.
I stop for lunch at the Old Dairy cafe, on a working farm just up the road, which serves local produce in creative dishes, from meze platters to bowls of street food. From there it’s a short drive to the studio that artists Amy Rhian, whose colourful papier-mache creations I’d admired at the cabin, and ceramist Issy Gordon share (they run occasional workshops and welcome visitors). Opposite is Muchelney pottery, renowned for its distinctive kitchenware with its “toasted” finish (there’s a shop and gallery on site).
It’s already dark when I arrive back at the cabin. The clouds roll in and the temperature drops, but I soak in a bubble bath on the deck, listening to the wind and a distant owl. With no wifi and patchy phone signal, it’s perfect for switching off – the DAB radio and books are company enough.
Besides all the art, there’s lots to explore in this part of the world, from thatched villages to National Trust gardens and walking routes like the Parrett Trail. Footpaths lead from the cabin across Westmoor, a site of special scientific interest, with its willow and reed-lined ditches, and in the winter the wetlands see plentiful birdlife and starling murmurations, particular at Shapwick Heath and Ham Wall RSPB.
As the weather looks stormy, I decide to drive to Langport the next day, passing the impressive ruins of Muchelney Abbey. It’s a good place to hire a bike and get out into the Levels or to boat or paddleboard along the River Parrett – but today a short riverside stroll suffices before I take refuge from the rain in the Bridge Bakery and Canteen.
Later, I pop into the Wyndham Arms, a welcoming place with flagstone floors, open fires and a wide choice of local ciders and beers, just down a track from the cabin. Kingsbury Episcopi is in the heart of cider land, an important cider apple growing region for centuries thanks to its climate and soil (come in May for spectacular blossom displays).
Within walking distance is Burrow Hill Cider where the Temperley family have produced cider and Somerset Cider Brandy for decades. I join a tour of the farm’s presses and distilleries to learn how it’s made – from tending the ancient orchards to pressing, fermenting, distilling and bottling it’s an intricate process – and buy some artisan fare to enjoy in the cabin that evening.
When I leave the next day, my painting takes pride of place on the passenger seat next to me. It’s not brilliant but there’s something about the lines of trees tumbling down the hill and the moody sky that I like. Mostly, it’s a lovely reminder of an inspiring stay and the talented people I’d met in this gentle, arty corner of the world.
The trip was provided by the Craftsman’s Cabin, which sleeps four (plus travel cot for a baby) and costs from £170 a night. A half-day painting session with Frances Watts costs £55. For more information about different artists see the website. To commission bespoke pieces or organise classes, contact Decca Lang